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Hi,
I have a jeep 2001/2 v cheerokee and have been trying to get the battery
out to bring it in to charge:banghead:
I can release the terminals no probs:clap: but cant see where the nuts or
bolts are to take the battery right out:banghead:
Is there a special tool or some sort of release to eject the battery so
that it could be removed & charged? There appears to be some sort of clamp
over the battery top but can't see where the holding nuts/bolts are?
Any help would be fab.
Thank you.
JP.:ohcrap:
kcapartsjp
Hi kcarpartsjp,
If it were the battery, then chances are you wouldn't be *able* to crank it
for 5 seconds. The starter should strongly turn the motor over for that
length of time -- if it starts to slow significantly, then you may have a
battery problem (now or more likely in the future). I'll assume that the
battery is OK.
Quickly forget the injectors -- the newer designs and better fuel have
pretty much erased that issue from this particular problem (15 years ago...
sure). Actually, the only thing that affects driveability is the dispersion
plate at the very tip of the injector -- sometimes, that can get partially
blocked and cause a stumble on acceleration (for example), but generally
not an extended crank issue. Today, the induction area is of more
importance, particularly around the throttle body 'butterfly' valve. These
often get choked with carbon deposits and cause idle concerns (i.e. hunting
for idle), so it's a good idea to keep this area clean. Years ago, after
cleaning them, we'd have to go through a 'learn' procedure for the engines'
controller to adjust to the change, but most computers are adaptive enough
not to need it these days.
Most times, this issue is the symptom of a problem in the fuel system. Jeep
had a problem with earlier model GC's ('99-'01), and some '02's -- the fuel
pump had an o-ring that cracked and allowed fuel to leak back through to
the tank. Similarly, the pump has a one-way check valve that keeps system
pressure as well. Unfortunately, this fuel is there as a residual to assist
in starting the vehicle. You see, when the key is turned to the RUN
position, the PCM will turn the fuel pump on for 3 seconds (PRIME), and
that should be enough to pressurize the injector rail. Then, when the
vehicle is cranking, it doesn't have to wait for fuel from the fuel tank --
its already got it. The first thing to do is put a fuel pressure gauge on
the system, and see whether it has *correct* pressure at all the right
times... 49.2psi +/- 5psi. For those earlier WJ's, there was a TSB that
replaced that o-ring, and the later ones (like yours) required a
replacement pump.
davies
Thanks very much for such a detailed reply it is much appreciated.
It turned out I needed a new battery that solved the problem but thanks for
the info it could be one to watch out for in the future.
Cheers for the time replying.
JP.:clap:
kcapartsjp
my friends mother has a cherokee and theyve gone through batteries every
two years. within a few months the terminals get crusty as hell, pos+ even
has white goo and looks like a marshmallow. if the battery is undersized
for the load of car, the electrolyte basically boils out the water in it
and the vapor carries the sulfuric acid onto engine compartment parts and
eats them starting with the battery clamps. get a better battery. also if
you live in an area with crazy winters like i do, two batteries will keep
your car starting every time :)
valvestate
