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Here's the deal. 87 chevy 1/2ton 2wd. I'm changing out control
arms(rotted). Buying them new was a little too pricey so I found a front
end in decent shape and I'm gonna take those, clean them up, and swap them
out for the ones on the truck.
Obviously I'm replacing the ball joints. Now I planned on doing the
bushings too but i asked around and heard to leave them if they're not
damaged. Aparently they're a pain.
I've done ball joints but never a control arm so anyone have any ideas how
difficult changing the bushings would be. If they're not bad I don't wanna
open a can of worms. I do have access to a press if neccesary. I'd really
rather not bring them to a shop but will if i need to.
Thanks for the help.
DBain
if the bushings arnt cracked or rotted out, i guess you can use them.and
yes they are a pain to get out. but if i was you id replace them.
DARKtEAGLE
Translation:
While control arm bushings may not be the easiest part of your car to
replace, let's face it. You've already done most of the work by removing
the arms, plus you have the added advantage of being able to continue
driving while doing the work and then simply swapping out the control arms.
Also, you said you intend to replace the ball joints, why do the job half
way? Control arm bushings are wear items and affect alignment.
My suggestion to you would be to not only replace them, but to replace them
with urethane bushings from Prothane or Energy Suspension. They last
forever, reduce deflection and are easier to install. Most urethane
bushings use the existing bushing shells, so instead of having to press
them in and out, you just use a flame wrench to burn out the old rubber,
clean 'em up and push in the new bushings with your fingers. The bonus is
that they're usually cheaper than OE style items. While you're there,
consider replacing the sway bar links too.
BTW, don't forget to document the shim count and position before removing
your upper control arms for reassembly. You'll still have to get the truck
aligned after the work, but at least you'll be close enough to drive it to
the shop of your choice without trashing the tires.
That's the difference between an answer based on experience and an answer
based on being able to turn on Mommy's computer and pull BS out of thin
air.
vwhobo
Good call I didn't even think about the shims. I had the shop down the road
do my alignment last time on my car and now it pulls left instead of right.
I did plan on getting the urethanes, I've nothing but good about them. Map
gas should be hot enough to melt the old rubber out right? If not I'll take
em into work and have one of the machine shop guys torch em out for me with
oxy-acetaline(sp?).
As for the sway bar links, the spare front end looks like they've been done
recently(along with a bump stop, caliper, and brake line). I did plan on
just using them but I suppose they're cheap enough I might as well just by
new.
In response to your comment robin. I never said I was having trouble for
one. I just needed advice to confirm or deny what my buddy told me after
doing his. Also if I don't plan on going to a shop. Which is why I'm here
in the first place, for advice on how to do it, not to hear some idiot tell
me to go see someone who knows what they're talking about because you
obviously don't have a clue. So to get to the point, if you don't have
anything helpful to say SHUT THE F*CK UP.
thank you.
DBain
1. Good job on the urethane decision. I recommend going with the Prothane
black, I use them all the time on my own and customers street cars when
available. I get mine from Phil's Inc.
2. I've never used MAP to burn out a bushing, but I'm sure it'll work, it
may just take a bit longer. TIP: I don't actually burn out the bushing.
I simply heat the inner steel sleeve until the rubber starts to melt.
Sometimes it'll spit itself out and sometimes it'll need a push. Either
way, there's lees smoke and less chance of fire.
vwhobo
don't let him get to you DBain, he's just here to spam.:wink2:
dvdrose18
Prothane huh? Well I'll check with the local parts stores to see if anyones
got them. They never have what I'm looking for. Just like walmart,
everything you could imagine except what you're looking for. Along with the
lack to good help.
Eh a little smoke and fire never hurt anyone.........:smoke:
Thanks for the help. I'll check back after I get something accomplished.
PS Where's redneck hell anyway?
DBain
http://www.philsinc.com/prothane/
I've been a customer of theirs for over 25 years.
vwhobo
Just thought I'd check in. Old frame is stripped. Still gotta press out the
lower ball joints but that's it. Now it's onto sandblast and paint. Gonna
order parts tonight.
DBain
I have another question involving this project. I took my spare front end
parts to the shop yesturday to press out the old ball joints I wanted to
take the old bushings out. Come to find out there are none. I was told the
frame was an 83 and comparing part numbers from 87 to 83 the control arms
were the same.
Looking at them in person now I'm seeing different control arm shafts
(axles? not sure what they're really called). The originals on the truck
look like they have bushings and the ones I'm ready to clean up don't.
It seems that they rotate on on the inside threads and just take grease
from the fitting to make them slide back and forth. A fairly simple design
and it'd save me $70-80 on bushings.
My question is, did they change over to bushings later on for a nicer ride?
or is this aftermarket? Is there a noticable difference in the ride from
one design to the next. Would I be better off for the sake of ride and
alignment to use the shafts on the truck with the nicer control arms? It
looks like I can swap them.
Any ideas?
DBain
Just an update.
Parts are all blasted and painted. Went with Energy suspension sway bar
bushings due to they were easy to get and keeping the old bushingless
control arms.(If I don't like it I've got the old shafts and can swap them
out.) Got one arm in and as soon as it stops raining I can finish this
project.... Until I get the new fuel lines. Any advice on them? Aside from
the fact it's TBI so no low pressure rubber lines.
DBain
What do you mean "no low pressure rubber lines"?
Wally
tbi isn't really high pressure, though...:2cents:
dodger65
I was told I couldn't use rubber lines because the injection was too much
pressure. Is this wrong? Are there flexible universal fuel lines I could
use? All I've ever done is run rubber lines on some carb'd mud trucks. All
the pre-bent fuel lines I've found are pretty pricey so If I'm misled,
please let me know.
DBain
Well there are always exceptions to any rule, but TBI psi tended to hover
around the low teens. I'd just use the EFI hose anyway.
Wally
your tbi is supposed to be at about 9-13 psi. not really all that high. if
it were my truck, i don't think i'd see anything wrong with fabbing my own
hard lines and using the reinforced fuel injection hose that you can get at
the parts store to connect to the existing ends. anyone have a little
deeper insight into something i may have missed?
dodger65
When I went to the parts store and asked what they had for universal lines
they said nothing, and each line would run me around $60-70 a piece. Having
only one tank that'd run me well over $100. I wouldn't mind bending my own
lines if it would save me some money but I'm gonna need fittings on both
ends and for the filter. Are they flared like brake lines? Like I said I've
never had to do fuel lines on anything injected before so any advice would
be appreciated.
DBain
