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For full features; Go to HELP!! rear wiper motor on 1996 villager is wierd
Hi!
My task for the last 5 months has been on trying to get this rear wiper
motor on my 1996 mercury villager working after it broke at least 6 or 7
years ago.
I bought another motor off ebay (stupid me) for 20 bucks. i reinstalled
that motor and its doing the same thing.
to start off what the motor is doing is when you press the button, and even
when u dont, the motor starts to make the wiper go up and down violently.
when you press the button it proceeds to go all the way once then gets
stuck then when u let go of the button it goes back to its original
placement. Then it goes to slightly below its original placement, like when
you would try and open up the glass part of the trunk, and gets stuck
there. occasionally itll do the violent thing i mentioned above.
Alright so on the part i took out to replace with the ebay part which is
doing the exact same thing, i opened up the wiper motor, a "wonderful"
product of valeo.
anyway i took apart the motor and seperated the two parts, the black
plastic box with a circuit board, and the metal part with the motor. and
tested the motor directly
the motor did proceed to go one way, and then the other as i tested it
manually using a power supply.
When i examined the circuit board within the second part of the motor (the
cheap black plastic box part) it looks like one of the prongs got
burned.
I believe this is common in the villager, that the rear wiper motor does
not work.
I have come to believe that this part of the motor is known as the "pulse
board"
whatever it might be called here are the numbers, if they help:
Some number on the top of the board within a white sticker:
73921912
10 11 95
on the back there is some writing on the sides, each line below represents
a space between the writings
CIDM
2
inf
09733045A
Valeo
I really hope someone can help me find a replacement board or some other
solution to fix this annoying problem. I have had only one other problem
with the car but as per engine issues or majro mechanical things like that
its been perfect.
Thanks so much! sorry for my long-winded writing i wanted to be specific
and provide all details!
-dan
compwiz
Dan,
Don't beat yourself up about the motor purchase. While it may be possible,
I just find it hard to believe that two separate motors had the exact same
whacky problem! You may have succeeded in eliminating the motor as the
cause of the problem
Are you working with a Haynes or other repair manual on this? The one I
have is a '96 Camry's and mentions a switch, relay, and the motor as all
being part of the system. It provides troubleshooting information for the
switch, Which on this vehicle is located in an area requiring removal of
the steering column cover. So I say check first if your cmponemts are
similar to this setup, and then regardless, the relay should be easy enough
to check. I forget the details as to when you should have continuity on
which pins with or without power supplied to the relay, but it should be
easy enough to look up
If the relay checks out okay, you may need to look into the switch. If the
connector you need to check is hard to access, consider tracing back the
wires on the schematic to a more accessible location.
Also, ensure that you've done some checks like dirt & debris where it
shouldn't be, any broken wires, etc. Good luck!
JaneiR36
If it's jamming and over travelling, it might just be the linkages need a
bit of grease. Th PCB won't like prolonged stalled motor current and will
eventually form hot spots on the track joints.
Wally
Thanks all for your responses.
I did a little more studying, i found online a copy of the wiring diagram
for the back of this area of the villager. the short seems to be in the
back of the car near the trunk lock.
This version of the villager has opening and closing glass. when you open
the glass the wiper moves down to allow opening. It seems that there is a
short in that the wiper is being told to constantly keep going down even
when the back lock is not being touched.
there are 2 wires going into the wiper from this lock, the wire for the
wiper to move out of the way, and the ground wire for the wiper. There is a
clip in the middle of these two connections to connect the wires. I
bypassed the lock wire but kept the ground wire connected. I tried the
wiper and it worked.
I proceeded to press the rear washer button, liquid came out, the wiper
moved once over then proceeded to stop where it would if the lock short had
remained intact.
well this got me a bit angry, got it to work then it stopped. I turned off
the car, and disconnected the wire cause the motor was getting hot, it was
pretty obvious that their might be anotehr short. i took out the motor and
connected it out of the car, turned car back on pressed wiper button, wiper
worked perfectly until i proceeded to press washer button.
so now i ask for advice, should i cut both the wires, the lock wire, and
the washer wire, to the wiper? or should i keep the washer wiper but cut
the lock wire since at least the wiper moves when the lock wire is
bypassed.
If anyone has had any issues like this with the villager or any experience
with annoying windshield wipers, or any advice at all, please list advice
on this thread. all informative advice appreciated, and again i thank the
past posters for their advice.
as a side note, the electronic wiring in the villager is astonishing. I
looked at the wiring in the rear, the wires are held together with electric
tape.
Maybe it is standard practice, im not sure, but to me it doesnt seem like
it. At least though the motor was ruled out as being the bad part,
unfortuantely it woudlve been the easiest part to replace.
thanks again
-dan
compwiz
Electrical tape? Haha. The idealist in me says find the source of the
short and see if you can do anything in that location, because what if more
wires are in the same area, just waiting to short out? But then, what is
more practical.
I guess in the meantime you could try not hitting the washer fluid button
and instead just wash it at gas stations and such while you buy some more
time to figure out here the short is.
Was this online schematic free? Do you have a link to it? When you cut
these wires, will you run a set directly from their source all the way to
the desination to replace the connections so you can still keep the
functions? I wondered if this is what you meant when you sid you by passed
the wires
I read a tip in my manual the other day about using aluminum foil wrapped
around a wire, and then use alligator clips to the AL foil with your finger
pressed over the foil and wire. This could read the voltage and help locate
the exact point of a wire break? Not sure if you're using a multimeter at
all or if you'll need this, but if you get a chance to try it out, please
let me know how it works!
PS: Did you get a chance to test the relay? I just realized that now you
have multiple circuits shorting. A faulty relay may activate a circuit
when it shouldn't be?? Especially if the relay controls both functions,
which I don't know if it does in this case, this would make sense. Just an
idea.
Is there any evidence of water damage to the connector? Corrosion of the
connector would be an easy way for otherwise isolated terminals to get
bussed together, IMO.
JaneiR36
connection on wiper motor
Pin 1 blk/ylw stripe to opening back window switch
pin 2 pink power supply - hot all the time
pin 3 blue to rear washer motor
pin 4 blk ground
pin 5 ylw/blk stripe power supply - hot in acc or run position
pin 6 blue/ylw stripe to rear window wiper washer switch
when the glass is opened, the wiper drops down and the window switch
circuit opens, causing th ecurrent to the motor to shut off. stopping rear
wiper movement.
when the rear wiper switch is depressed, the single speed motor operates
about every 10 seconds. it has only one speed. when turned off, it
returns to the park position.
I would not rule out the wiper motor since you put in a used one. It
probably has the same defect. Water leaking into the motor circuit board
will cause this problem, That's why the plastic cover to shield the motor
from water intrusion. The circuit board is not a separate item. It comes
with the motor.
here's a test. you shoul have 12 volts on pin 2 all the time. you should
have power on pin 5 when the ignition switch is in "run" position.
pin 4 is ground and should have zero ohms.
you could run a separate ground (to test) to the wiper motor if you suspect
a poor ground.
I still think it's the motor. You can buy a new one from Tasca Lincoln
Mercury on line for about $100. http://www.tascafordparts.com//index.do
good luck.
PS. all wiring is wrapped in electrical tape, and it is done manually on a
big board where the harness is laid out, then bundled.
engineer
